The staircase streets of Ihwa-dong carry murals painted by local and international artists starting in 2006. The most famous piece — a pair of fish that used to include a real carp that was later removed — still draws the most attention, but the full walk covers dozens of works across several alleys. The neighborhood is genuinely residential and still lived in, which keeps it from feeling like a theme park. Morning is better than evening when the alleys are quiet.
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