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For five days, October 7 to 11, the four main palaces and Jongmyo Shrine stop being places you look at and become places where something happens — performances, night programmes, things you make with your hands. Most of it you walk into on the day; no booking. Then Friday is Hangeul Day, a public holiday, and this year is the 100th since the day was given its name. If you have ever looked at Korean letters and wondered why they are shaped like that, the answer sits on the third floor of the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History on Sejong-daero — a 100th-anniversary exhibition, free, 10:00 to 18:00. Walk out of Gyeongbokgung's gate, cross the road, and you are there.



