After 10 p.m., the stretch between Jongno 3-ga and Jongno 5-ga transforms into one of Seoul's oldest surviving outdoor drinking cultures. Canvas tent stalls line both sides of the road selling grilled skewers, steamed seafood, and soondae with soju or beer. The crowd skews older than Hongdae, the prices are lower, and the atmosphere — loud, unselfconscious, everyone already three drinks in — is as close to Old Seoul as anywhere still operating.
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