The neighborhood west of Gyeongbokgung was traditionally home to middle-class government workers and artists, a status it's maintained into the present. Streets of low hanok buildings house independent bookshops, teahouses, small galleries, and restaurants run by people who actually live in the neighborhood. The pace is slower than Bukchon, the cafés less crowded, and the residential character still intact. Yi Sang's former house and studio is open to visit — a poet and short-story writer from the Japanese colonial period.
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