Namdaemun Galbi-jjim Alley (남대문 갈비찜골목)

A narrow lane behind the main market building where a row of restaurants has been serving braised short ribs since the 1960s. The recipe hasn't changed: thick-cut ribs in a sweet soy glaze, slow-cooked until the meat falls off the bone, served with steamed rice and banchan. Lunch crowds are entirely locals and market workers. Prices are low enough to make you feel slightly guilty.

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