After midnight the dakgalbi restaurants around Sinchon station become the center of the neighborhood's food culture — university students, bar workers finishing shifts, and the occasional professor settling in for a late meal. The restaurants are designed for efficiency and volume: iron griddles on every table, kimchi included, soju orders come fast. The combination of cheap, good, and available at 2 a.m. explains why this particular format has survived unchanged here for thirty years.
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