While all of Korea chases cherry blossoms in April, a small network of villages at the base of Jirisan Mountain bursts into an entirely different yellow two weeks earlier — cornelian cherry trees (산수유, sansuyu) planted centuries ago by farming families who sold the berries as medicinal ingredients. The villages of Sandongyeon and nearby hamlets are still lived in by the families who planted these trees' ancestors, and in March the narrow stone-walled paths between houses become tunnels of yellow before a single leaf appears. The annual festival is modest and local. Pair with a hike into Jirisan's lower slopes — the mountain backdrop makes the valley look almost implausibly scenic.
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